Saturday, March 19, 2011

Another Trip to the Red

I was watching the weather at the Red for the past couple of weeks and when I saw that the temps were going to be in the 50s, I was sold.  It still was late February but I had just finished a hard week of school and wanted to get out to some rock.

I headed down with a few of my favorite friends in my Corolla - thank goodness the Loade's approach just got repaved.  On our first day, Saturday, we headed to the Loade, but after warming up on Tuna we decided to move onward to Driveby due to seepage at the Loade. 

At Driveby one of my friends was working Kaleidoscope and was oooo so close.  I decided to get on Supercharger (13d).  Boy is that route hard - this route does not allow you to take a hand off to chalk or shake.  Most of the moves were compression moves on sloppie underclings and sidepulls.  The temps were almost in the 60s at the peak of the day, and thus it seemed a little to hot that day for the route to go.  I would repeatedly grease off those slopers and it was getting me really frustrated.  At the end of the day I walked away with a vendetta for Supercharger once the temps were right.  Overall though Saturday was a productive day.

Sunday however, was a complete wash.  We decided to go the Loade, hoping to find that the routes had dried overnight, but instead they were even more wet.  We warmed up on Tuna and then I hopped on 40ounces (13a) but popped off due to wet holds.  I got back on but had to skip many holds because there were puddles.  I hope next time I am back I will put that route away because some of the moves were really unique.  I thought that White Mans (13c) would be dry but the crux holds were super damp and I came flying off of them.  Dam!  That route is hard to begin with but with wet holds it felt impossible.  All in all, I enjoyed myself because I was in good ole Kentucky for the weekend, maybe better climbing next time I am down.

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