Saturday, March 5, 2011

2011 Bouldering Nationals

Bouldering National this year were held in Boulder, CO.  This is typical for Nationals, however this year the event was not held in a gym - rather it was held in a warehouse where USA Climbing assembled the TEVA Games portable bouldering mega walls.  This made for the possibility of more spectators and less cramping. 

The walls were super tall - 20+ feet at certain points.  Many of the problems started with jump starts or stand starts so they were not that many moves considering the height of the walls.  The format was standard World Cup Bouldering format with 6 quali probs each having a middle hold "hot hold" and a finish hold "top" that were used to score each of the problems. 

The first problem was a jump start off a volume to another volume.  After sticking the starting holds the rest of the problem was relatively easy, utilizing compression on these egrips slopers.  My foot slipped off while sticking the finish so I had to give it a second try to send it. 

The second problem was a techie vertical problem with bad crimps, slopie slopers, and a definitive balance component.  I flashed and got styched for what was to come next.

The third problem was not my style - big fat pinches and super long wide moves.  I kept sliding off one of the big pinches just before the bonus hold because of my wet paws - I need to get that operation!  After a good four tries I decided to let that one rest and save some for the next problem. 

The fourth problem was a heart breaker! I was just missing the bonus hold three attempts in a row.  I this problem incorporated crimps with really big and powerful moves (difficult for me as I am more of a lightweight technical climber).  I was on the hold just next to the finish hold, but as I would fall into the bonus hold I was just not squeezing hard enough to stick it.  After this failure I was super frustrated because I knew that I need to get one of those bonus holds. 

Somehow I pulled myself together and flashed the 5th route. This problem had a cool jump start with a roof to pull and then a crimpy finish.  I felt SO good after this success and this left a good taste on my confidence pallet for the 6th route.

The 6th route had some cool toe hook sequence with a big move to pull a roof.  The top of the problem ended up spitting me off as I was really greasy and then when I had a foot pop I could not keep myself on.  I got credit for the bonus hold but I was right there staring at the finish hold only inches away from my face.

Unfortunately, the third and fourth problems really cost me as I missed semifinals by only a few spots.  As it turned out I would have made the cut had I stuck the finish hold on that final problem on my flash attempt, which I clearly think I may have been capable of had I not be bummed about prob 3 and 4.  I ended up placing 29th, which is not my best placement but every year is different so it is impossible to compare the result of one year to another. 

I was immensely disappointed by my failure to make semifinals as it has always been a dream of mine to go to the World Cup - despite this I set my sights toward SCS Rope Nationals April 1 and 2 in Boulder at Movement Rock Gym.

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