I was watching the weather at the Red for the past couple of weeks and when I saw that the temps were going to be in the 50s, I was sold. It still was late February but I had just finished a hard week of school and wanted to get out to some rock.
I headed down with a few of my favorite friends in my Corolla - thank goodness the Loade's approach just got repaved. On our first day, Saturday, we headed to the Loade, but after warming up on Tuna we decided to move onward to Driveby due to seepage at the Loade.
At Driveby one of my friends was working Kaleidoscope and was oooo so close. I decided to get on Supercharger (13d). Boy is that route hard - this route does not allow you to take a hand off to chalk or shake. Most of the moves were compression moves on sloppie underclings and sidepulls. The temps were almost in the 60s at the peak of the day, and thus it seemed a little to hot that day for the route to go. I would repeatedly grease off those slopers and it was getting me really frustrated. At the end of the day I walked away with a vendetta for Supercharger once the temps were right. Overall though Saturday was a productive day.
Sunday however, was a complete wash. We decided to go the Loade, hoping to find that the routes had dried overnight, but instead they were even more wet. We warmed up on Tuna and then I hopped on 40ounces (13a) but popped off due to wet holds. I got back on but had to skip many holds because there were puddles. I hope next time I am back I will put that route away because some of the moves were really unique. I thought that White Mans (13c) would be dry but the crux holds were super damp and I came flying off of them. Dam! That route is hard to begin with but with wet holds it felt impossible. All in all, I enjoyed myself because I was in good ole Kentucky for the weekend, maybe better climbing next time I am down.
Saturday, March 19, 2011
Saturday, March 5, 2011
2011 Bouldering Nationals
Bouldering National this year were held in Boulder, CO. This is typical for Nationals, however this year the event was not held in a gym - rather it was held in a warehouse where USA Climbing assembled the TEVA Games portable bouldering mega walls. This made for the possibility of more spectators and less cramping.
The walls were super tall - 20+ feet at certain points. Many of the problems started with jump starts or stand starts so they were not that many moves considering the height of the walls. The format was standard World Cup Bouldering format with 6 quali probs each having a middle hold "hot hold" and a finish hold "top" that were used to score each of the problems.
The first problem was a jump start off a volume to another volume. After sticking the starting holds the rest of the problem was relatively easy, utilizing compression on these egrips slopers. My foot slipped off while sticking the finish so I had to give it a second try to send it.
The second problem was a techie vertical problem with bad crimps, slopie slopers, and a definitive balance component. I flashed and got styched for what was to come next.
The third problem was not my style - big fat pinches and super long wide moves. I kept sliding off one of the big pinches just before the bonus hold because of my wet paws - I need to get that operation! After a good four tries I decided to let that one rest and save some for the next problem.
The fourth problem was a heart breaker! I was just missing the bonus hold three attempts in a row. I this problem incorporated crimps with really big and powerful moves (difficult for me as I am more of a lightweight technical climber). I was on the hold just next to the finish hold, but as I would fall into the bonus hold I was just not squeezing hard enough to stick it. After this failure I was super frustrated because I knew that I need to get one of those bonus holds.
Somehow I pulled myself together and flashed the 5th route. This problem had a cool jump start with a roof to pull and then a crimpy finish. I felt SO good after this success and this left a good taste on my confidence pallet for the 6th route.
The 6th route had some cool toe hook sequence with a big move to pull a roof. The top of the problem ended up spitting me off as I was really greasy and then when I had a foot pop I could not keep myself on. I got credit for the bonus hold but I was right there staring at the finish hold only inches away from my face.
Unfortunately, the third and fourth problems really cost me as I missed semifinals by only a few spots. As it turned out I would have made the cut had I stuck the finish hold on that final problem on my flash attempt, which I clearly think I may have been capable of had I not be bummed about prob 3 and 4. I ended up placing 29th, which is not my best placement but every year is different so it is impossible to compare the result of one year to another.
I was immensely disappointed by my failure to make semifinals as it has always been a dream of mine to go to the World Cup - despite this I set my sights toward SCS Rope Nationals April 1 and 2 in Boulder at Movement Rock Gym.
The walls were super tall - 20+ feet at certain points. Many of the problems started with jump starts or stand starts so they were not that many moves considering the height of the walls. The format was standard World Cup Bouldering format with 6 quali probs each having a middle hold "hot hold" and a finish hold "top" that were used to score each of the problems.
The first problem was a jump start off a volume to another volume. After sticking the starting holds the rest of the problem was relatively easy, utilizing compression on these egrips slopers. My foot slipped off while sticking the finish so I had to give it a second try to send it.
The second problem was a techie vertical problem with bad crimps, slopie slopers, and a definitive balance component. I flashed and got styched for what was to come next.
The third problem was not my style - big fat pinches and super long wide moves. I kept sliding off one of the big pinches just before the bonus hold because of my wet paws - I need to get that operation! After a good four tries I decided to let that one rest and save some for the next problem.
The fourth problem was a heart breaker! I was just missing the bonus hold three attempts in a row. I this problem incorporated crimps with really big and powerful moves (difficult for me as I am more of a lightweight technical climber). I was on the hold just next to the finish hold, but as I would fall into the bonus hold I was just not squeezing hard enough to stick it. After this failure I was super frustrated because I knew that I need to get one of those bonus holds.
Somehow I pulled myself together and flashed the 5th route. This problem had a cool jump start with a roof to pull and then a crimpy finish. I felt SO good after this success and this left a good taste on my confidence pallet for the 6th route.
The 6th route had some cool toe hook sequence with a big move to pull a roof. The top of the problem ended up spitting me off as I was really greasy and then when I had a foot pop I could not keep myself on. I got credit for the bonus hold but I was right there staring at the finish hold only inches away from my face.
Unfortunately, the third and fourth problems really cost me as I missed semifinals by only a few spots. As it turned out I would have made the cut had I stuck the finish hold on that final problem on my flash attempt, which I clearly think I may have been capable of had I not be bummed about prob 3 and 4. I ended up placing 29th, which is not my best placement but every year is different so it is impossible to compare the result of one year to another.
I was immensely disappointed by my failure to make semifinals as it has always been a dream of mine to go to the World Cup - despite this I set my sights toward SCS Rope Nationals April 1 and 2 in Boulder at Movement Rock Gym.
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