This past weekend many of the kids from Hidden Peak competeted at the 2011 SCS Divisional Championship, held at Planet Rock in Ann Arbor Michigan. Hidden Peak brought 12 climbers to the competition for both Speed and Sport disciplines. For a few of the kids this was their first Divisionals and for others it was just another walk in the park. Both Dave and did everything we could to keep the younger kids calm and composed in isolation as many of them were excited and were bouncing off the walks.
On day one the day was broken up into a morning and afternoon session to help shorten wait times in isolation (in the old days isolation could last as long as 6 hours). Most of our younger kids categories were in the morning and the older kids were in the afternoon. Every category had their preview time and then each kid was brought out one at a time to climb their routes (two for the first day and 1 for the second day). The first route typically is a warm up and then the second route is what separates the field.
A few of our younger kids were eliminated on day one but many of them moved on to day two. It is upsetting for the kids that did not make it to day 2 because all of the kids train so hard and really want to do well at these events. Some of the kids made mental errors that cost them, others climbed flawlessly but got pumped out before they could get high enough to qualify for day two.
On day two all of the kids climbed beautifully and all of them that qualified for day two made it to Nationals. While warming up in isolation that morning all of the kids were extremely nervous as they knew that they needed to do really well if they wanted to move on to Nationals. I had to make sure that they all were completely warmed up before heading out to climb as there was only one route for them to climb and it was hard! They were given one shot (onsight) to climb as high as they could. Many of the Peakers had exciting falls that made the crowd ooooo and aahhhh. In the end all of the kids left Ann Arbor with a smile on their face as they all had good times and good climbs with friends and competitors alike.
Thursday, June 16, 2011
Saturday, June 4, 2011
Canmore Bouldering World Cup
The Canmore World Cup was this weekend boy was it a blast! This World Cup was for bouldering and it was the first World Cup to be held in Canada. When we flew in it was 35 degrees and raining - we hoped that the weather would turn for the better as the event was being held outside. Unfortunately the weather was even worse on Friday; it was 30 and snowing for almost all of the day. It was extra difficult to warm up in the iso area with these conditions. They brought us out one at a time in order of IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) ranking. Because this was my first World Cup I had no ranking and I was placing near the end, and this was a distinct disadvantage as the holds were much more greasy after 40 people were climbing on them.
I was shocked at the problem set that we were given as most big comps have huge moves with tons of slopers and pinches. This set was more about 1 arming off ridiculously small crimps. On one of my problems I popped off one of those tiny crimps and gashed open my knuckle. I did not realize this until my judge told that I was dripping blood all over the place. I tried jamming chalk in this wound but it was bleeding like a sieve came real close to sending that problem but I had to go see the EMT before I got another good try on that problem. The EMT was not able to stop the bleeding so my finger was painfully gushing all over the place for the rest of my comp despite my use of chalk, superglue, and tape. Had I not been preoccupied with that finger I believe would have been a bit more focused for last few problems. However, the end of the comp was not what killed my score, it was the first few problems, and I think it had to do with the cold and me not be too psyched be dynoing around on crimps. Hudson and the other TEAM USA coaches said that I am more than strong enough to pull some of the same moves that these world champs pulled but I just was not trusting in my instincts.
But enough of that, it was a fun comp nonetheless and my very first World Cup. I received the bid kinda late for this comp so next time I hope that I have more time to prepare and train for this specific event.
Now I set my sights on what I do best - ROPE!
Styched for more
Sunday, May 22, 2011
Canmore Bouldering World Cup
I received a call from USA Climbing just the other day with an invitation for the Canmore Bouldering World Cup. This was a great way to be woken up. This will be my first Bouldering World Cup and I am excited to be representing Team USA. I competed on Team USA one time prior to this event and that was for the 2008 Continental Championships. That competition was held in Montreal. This World Cup is going to be held in Canmore, which is just outside of Calgary. A few of my best climbing friends are flying out to compete and judge so I am styched!
The competition will be conducted in the bouldering World Cup format. This entails hot holds and tops for the scoring - one gets credit for a problem if one reaches the bonus hold (usually marked within a box) or is one finishes the problem by gaining control of the finishing hold. The number of falls it takes for one to reach the finishing hold and the bonus hold are taken into consideration when breaking ties and such. Essentially whoever tops the most problems will score the highest.
More to come with the results
The competition will be conducted in the bouldering World Cup format. This entails hot holds and tops for the scoring - one gets credit for a problem if one reaches the bonus hold (usually marked within a box) or is one finishes the problem by gaining control of the finishing hold. The number of falls it takes for one to reach the finishing hold and the bonus hold are taken into consideration when breaking ties and such. Essentially whoever tops the most problems will score the highest.
More to come with the results
Saturday, March 19, 2011
Another Trip to the Red
I was watching the weather at the Red for the past couple of weeks and when I saw that the temps were going to be in the 50s, I was sold. It still was late February but I had just finished a hard week of school and wanted to get out to some rock.
I headed down with a few of my favorite friends in my Corolla - thank goodness the Loade's approach just got repaved. On our first day, Saturday, we headed to the Loade, but after warming up on Tuna we decided to move onward to Driveby due to seepage at the Loade.
At Driveby one of my friends was working Kaleidoscope and was oooo so close. I decided to get on Supercharger (13d). Boy is that route hard - this route does not allow you to take a hand off to chalk or shake. Most of the moves were compression moves on sloppie underclings and sidepulls. The temps were almost in the 60s at the peak of the day, and thus it seemed a little to hot that day for the route to go. I would repeatedly grease off those slopers and it was getting me really frustrated. At the end of the day I walked away with a vendetta for Supercharger once the temps were right. Overall though Saturday was a productive day.
Sunday however, was a complete wash. We decided to go the Loade, hoping to find that the routes had dried overnight, but instead they were even more wet. We warmed up on Tuna and then I hopped on 40ounces (13a) but popped off due to wet holds. I got back on but had to skip many holds because there were puddles. I hope next time I am back I will put that route away because some of the moves were really unique. I thought that White Mans (13c) would be dry but the crux holds were super damp and I came flying off of them. Dam! That route is hard to begin with but with wet holds it felt impossible. All in all, I enjoyed myself because I was in good ole Kentucky for the weekend, maybe better climbing next time I am down.
I headed down with a few of my favorite friends in my Corolla - thank goodness the Loade's approach just got repaved. On our first day, Saturday, we headed to the Loade, but after warming up on Tuna we decided to move onward to Driveby due to seepage at the Loade.
At Driveby one of my friends was working Kaleidoscope and was oooo so close. I decided to get on Supercharger (13d). Boy is that route hard - this route does not allow you to take a hand off to chalk or shake. Most of the moves were compression moves on sloppie underclings and sidepulls. The temps were almost in the 60s at the peak of the day, and thus it seemed a little to hot that day for the route to go. I would repeatedly grease off those slopers and it was getting me really frustrated. At the end of the day I walked away with a vendetta for Supercharger once the temps were right. Overall though Saturday was a productive day.
Sunday however, was a complete wash. We decided to go the Loade, hoping to find that the routes had dried overnight, but instead they were even more wet. We warmed up on Tuna and then I hopped on 40ounces (13a) but popped off due to wet holds. I got back on but had to skip many holds because there were puddles. I hope next time I am back I will put that route away because some of the moves were really unique. I thought that White Mans (13c) would be dry but the crux holds were super damp and I came flying off of them. Dam! That route is hard to begin with but with wet holds it felt impossible. All in all, I enjoyed myself because I was in good ole Kentucky for the weekend, maybe better climbing next time I am down.
Saturday, March 5, 2011
2011 Bouldering Nationals
Bouldering National this year were held in Boulder, CO. This is typical for Nationals, however this year the event was not held in a gym - rather it was held in a warehouse where USA Climbing assembled the TEVA Games portable bouldering mega walls. This made for the possibility of more spectators and less cramping.
The walls were super tall - 20+ feet at certain points. Many of the problems started with jump starts or stand starts so they were not that many moves considering the height of the walls. The format was standard World Cup Bouldering format with 6 quali probs each having a middle hold "hot hold" and a finish hold "top" that were used to score each of the problems.
The first problem was a jump start off a volume to another volume. After sticking the starting holds the rest of the problem was relatively easy, utilizing compression on these egrips slopers. My foot slipped off while sticking the finish so I had to give it a second try to send it.
The second problem was a techie vertical problem with bad crimps, slopie slopers, and a definitive balance component. I flashed and got styched for what was to come next.
The third problem was not my style - big fat pinches and super long wide moves. I kept sliding off one of the big pinches just before the bonus hold because of my wet paws - I need to get that operation! After a good four tries I decided to let that one rest and save some for the next problem.
The fourth problem was a heart breaker! I was just missing the bonus hold three attempts in a row. I this problem incorporated crimps with really big and powerful moves (difficult for me as I am more of a lightweight technical climber). I was on the hold just next to the finish hold, but as I would fall into the bonus hold I was just not squeezing hard enough to stick it. After this failure I was super frustrated because I knew that I need to get one of those bonus holds.
Somehow I pulled myself together and flashed the 5th route. This problem had a cool jump start with a roof to pull and then a crimpy finish. I felt SO good after this success and this left a good taste on my confidence pallet for the 6th route.
The 6th route had some cool toe hook sequence with a big move to pull a roof. The top of the problem ended up spitting me off as I was really greasy and then when I had a foot pop I could not keep myself on. I got credit for the bonus hold but I was right there staring at the finish hold only inches away from my face.
Unfortunately, the third and fourth problems really cost me as I missed semifinals by only a few spots. As it turned out I would have made the cut had I stuck the finish hold on that final problem on my flash attempt, which I clearly think I may have been capable of had I not be bummed about prob 3 and 4. I ended up placing 29th, which is not my best placement but every year is different so it is impossible to compare the result of one year to another.
I was immensely disappointed by my failure to make semifinals as it has always been a dream of mine to go to the World Cup - despite this I set my sights toward SCS Rope Nationals April 1 and 2 in Boulder at Movement Rock Gym.
The walls were super tall - 20+ feet at certain points. Many of the problems started with jump starts or stand starts so they were not that many moves considering the height of the walls. The format was standard World Cup Bouldering format with 6 quali probs each having a middle hold "hot hold" and a finish hold "top" that were used to score each of the problems.
The first problem was a jump start off a volume to another volume. After sticking the starting holds the rest of the problem was relatively easy, utilizing compression on these egrips slopers. My foot slipped off while sticking the finish so I had to give it a second try to send it.
The second problem was a techie vertical problem with bad crimps, slopie slopers, and a definitive balance component. I flashed and got styched for what was to come next.
The third problem was not my style - big fat pinches and super long wide moves. I kept sliding off one of the big pinches just before the bonus hold because of my wet paws - I need to get that operation! After a good four tries I decided to let that one rest and save some for the next problem.
The fourth problem was a heart breaker! I was just missing the bonus hold three attempts in a row. I this problem incorporated crimps with really big and powerful moves (difficult for me as I am more of a lightweight technical climber). I was on the hold just next to the finish hold, but as I would fall into the bonus hold I was just not squeezing hard enough to stick it. After this failure I was super frustrated because I knew that I need to get one of those bonus holds.
Somehow I pulled myself together and flashed the 5th route. This problem had a cool jump start with a roof to pull and then a crimpy finish. I felt SO good after this success and this left a good taste on my confidence pallet for the 6th route.
The 6th route had some cool toe hook sequence with a big move to pull a roof. The top of the problem ended up spitting me off as I was really greasy and then when I had a foot pop I could not keep myself on. I got credit for the bonus hold but I was right there staring at the finish hold only inches away from my face.
Unfortunately, the third and fourth problems really cost me as I missed semifinals by only a few spots. As it turned out I would have made the cut had I stuck the finish hold on that final problem on my flash attempt, which I clearly think I may have been capable of had I not be bummed about prob 3 and 4. I ended up placing 29th, which is not my best placement but every year is different so it is impossible to compare the result of one year to another.
I was immensely disappointed by my failure to make semifinals as it has always been a dream of mine to go to the World Cup - despite this I set my sights toward SCS Rope Nationals April 1 and 2 in Boulder at Movement Rock Gym.
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Quick on the Draw 2011
One of my favorite comps every year is the the Quick on the Draw at Adventure Rock, Milwaukee. I have been attending this comp since I was 11 or 12 years old. It has always been one of my favorite comps because the people, the routes, the creativity, the costumes, and the excitement of finals. It is a tradition for many finals climbers to dress up in costumes during finals - Kasia and her dress, the HP girls in Turtle costumes, and Tyler and David in whatever the hell they wore. As much as I used to enjoy dressing in costumes while climbing, (gum underneath a chair, grapes, super super short shorts) I find myself trying to minimize my humiliation on finals routes.
In the past there have been some creative comp themes but this year took this idea to a whole new level, with special holds made in honor of the theme. The theme for 2011 was mustaches. In preparation for the comp many of the AD rockers grew their stashes long and proud. There even was a competition for the best mustache. Although this theme was a bit sexist there were still some women who came up with ways to have mustaches.
Qualifiers were jammed packed with little to no room to move from route to route. Despite this I was able to get on all of my routes without much wait. To everyones' enjoyment the routes are scored per hold so that even if you don't top it out you will still get partial credit. The routes this year were pretty consistent and a few had me spitting off all over the place. The Boulder problems were cool, although one of the probs had a dangerous fall that put me on my back.
I was last coming out for finals as I qualified in first position. I choose We Didn't Start the Fire by Billy Joel as my song to be played as I climbed (the climber typically never hears his/her song as they are too focused on the route and the crowd can get pretty loud). After all of the women and all the advanced men and open men had already gone out I felt like a rat trapped in a cage as I was ready to get out of isolation and get it done.
The finals route include all the mustache holds made by a really cool new company out of Appleton WI, Figure 4. The first move was a jump start which concerned me because I was not used to jump starting with a rope tied to me, only over a bouldering mat. My first few attempts at the jump left me with my tail between my legs as I was scared of crushing my diagram on the stalactite that we were jumping to. After a few false starts, my belay, Jeremy ( a good friend, going back to the days of JCCA), had me stop and take a few breaths. I slowed my heart rate and took one last long deep breath, grabbed some chalk, gave Jeremy a node, and launch for those seemingly distant starting holds. To my surprise I caught one of the start holds and clawed at the stalactite with the other. I pulled my feet up and established on the start holds. I immediately took to getting my self up this route quickly as I knew it would be bouldery. The first few moves were powerful and juggy. I made a few fancy healhooks and before I knew it I was on giant mustache hold. It was quite slopey but I kept my body low on it. I made my next clip, chalked, and brought my feet up to sprint to the next big hold. After a few crimps, I was on another sloper which had me squeezing it pretty hard as it was tremendously warm in the gym at the time. I made the next clip and powered on. I hamhocked the next hold and tried to reach out to the volume where the definitive crux was. While reaching over, I failed to see the hold on the other side of the volume and I tried gastoning the volume itself. This gaston was not very good so it went to spit me off prematurely. I felt that I had some more gas left in the tank - I blame the disco lights that cast a shadow over that hold that I missed but either way that volume was hard stuff.
As the results turned out David Nimmer and Alex Nimmer both beat me as well as this other strong fella from Indiana. I took 4th, which was a little upsetting but my peaking times are for Bouldering and Rope Nationals.
If you haven't been to Adventure Rock before you should go! It is one of the best gyms in the Midwest!
In the past there have been some creative comp themes but this year took this idea to a whole new level, with special holds made in honor of the theme. The theme for 2011 was mustaches. In preparation for the comp many of the AD rockers grew their stashes long and proud. There even was a competition for the best mustache. Although this theme was a bit sexist there were still some women who came up with ways to have mustaches.
Qualifiers were jammed packed with little to no room to move from route to route. Despite this I was able to get on all of my routes without much wait. To everyones' enjoyment the routes are scored per hold so that even if you don't top it out you will still get partial credit. The routes this year were pretty consistent and a few had me spitting off all over the place. The Boulder problems were cool, although one of the probs had a dangerous fall that put me on my back.
I was last coming out for finals as I qualified in first position. I choose We Didn't Start the Fire by Billy Joel as my song to be played as I climbed (the climber typically never hears his/her song as they are too focused on the route and the crowd can get pretty loud). After all of the women and all the advanced men and open men had already gone out I felt like a rat trapped in a cage as I was ready to get out of isolation and get it done.
The finals route include all the mustache holds made by a really cool new company out of Appleton WI, Figure 4. The first move was a jump start which concerned me because I was not used to jump starting with a rope tied to me, only over a bouldering mat. My first few attempts at the jump left me with my tail between my legs as I was scared of crushing my diagram on the stalactite that we were jumping to. After a few false starts, my belay, Jeremy ( a good friend, going back to the days of JCCA), had me stop and take a few breaths. I slowed my heart rate and took one last long deep breath, grabbed some chalk, gave Jeremy a node, and launch for those seemingly distant starting holds. To my surprise I caught one of the start holds and clawed at the stalactite with the other. I pulled my feet up and established on the start holds. I immediately took to getting my self up this route quickly as I knew it would be bouldery. The first few moves were powerful and juggy. I made a few fancy healhooks and before I knew it I was on giant mustache hold. It was quite slopey but I kept my body low on it. I made my next clip, chalked, and brought my feet up to sprint to the next big hold. After a few crimps, I was on another sloper which had me squeezing it pretty hard as it was tremendously warm in the gym at the time. I made the next clip and powered on. I hamhocked the next hold and tried to reach out to the volume where the definitive crux was. While reaching over, I failed to see the hold on the other side of the volume and I tried gastoning the volume itself. This gaston was not very good so it went to spit me off prematurely. I felt that I had some more gas left in the tank - I blame the disco lights that cast a shadow over that hold that I missed but either way that volume was hard stuff.
As the results turned out David Nimmer and Alex Nimmer both beat me as well as this other strong fella from Indiana. I took 4th, which was a little upsetting but my peaking times are for Bouldering and Rope Nationals.
If you haven't been to Adventure Rock before you should go! It is one of the best gyms in the Midwest!
Monday, January 10, 2011
Hueco
My first time in Hueco was spectacualar to say the least! I couldnt beleive the density of hard and quality problems. I found that being there during the New Year was a great time to see many of my friends as well as benefiting from the great temps. Speaking of which, it was unseasonable cold and we even got 2 inches of snow. I appreciated these temps because in general I grease off problems. The friction was great which ended up eating up my skin even after the first day.
One of the most challenging parts of climbing in Hueco is getting used to the unique movement - the toe hooks; the cams; the giant huecos. Thankfully I had a few friends with me that gave really good advice and beta for many of the problems that we were getting on.
I wish I had gotten on some of the stuff on North Mountain but I was unable to get on. The Egg was one of the most memorable problem that I got on - it has been over a week since I was in Hueco and I still have huge bruises on my knees from trying to kneebar so hard. 10-10 was another climb, at East, that I found to be particulary intersting. One of my good friends lost most of his fingertip to that problem as he hand-heal matched and ended slicing the side of his finger off. That was really unfortunate because it crippled his finger for the rest of the trip. In this way, I feel like I was getting revenge for my friend by sending 10-10.
The tick list includes but is not limited to:
One of the most challenging parts of climbing in Hueco is getting used to the unique movement - the toe hooks; the cams; the giant huecos. Thankfully I had a few friends with me that gave really good advice and beta for many of the problems that we were getting on.
I wish I had gotten on some of the stuff on North Mountain but I was unable to get on. The Egg was one of the most memorable problem that I got on - it has been over a week since I was in Hueco and I still have huge bruises on my knees from trying to kneebar so hard. 10-10 was another climb, at East, that I found to be particulary intersting. One of my good friends lost most of his fingertip to that problem as he hand-heal matched and ended slicing the side of his finger off. That was really unfortunate because it crippled his finger for the rest of the trip. In this way, I feel like I was getting revenge for my friend by sending 10-10.
The tick list includes but is not limited to:
Day 1: dragon fly v5, ultramega v8
Day 2: long haul v8, eat your wheaties v8/9, moonshine left v6
Day 3: Crimps for Christ v10, Hobbit in a Blender v5, hector in a blender v7, standing start v7
Day 4: Shrum V9 (onsight), between the cheeks v7, between the sheets v5, between the teets v4
Day 5: Frogger v9
Day 6: Glass Roof v9
Day 7: 10-10 v10
Pictures and Video to come
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