Saturday, June 4, 2011

Canmore Bouldering World Cup

The Canmore World Cup was this weekend boy was it a blast! This World Cup was for bouldering and it was the first World Cup to be held in Canada. When we flew in it was 35 degrees and raining - we hoped that the weather would turn for the better as the event was being held outside. Unfortunately the weather was even worse on Friday; it was 30 and snowing for almost all of the day. It was extra difficult to warm up in the iso area with these conditions. They brought us out one at a time in order of IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) ranking.  Because this was my first World Cup I had no ranking and I was placing near the end, and this was a distinct disadvantage as the holds were much more greasy after 40 people were climbing on them.

I was shocked at the problem set that we were given as most big comps have huge moves with tons of slopers and pinches. This set was more about 1 arming off ridiculously small crimps. On one of my problems I popped off one of those tiny crimps and gashed open my knuckle. I did not realize this until my judge told that I was dripping blood all over the place. I tried jamming chalk in this wound but it was bleeding like a sieve came real close to sending that problem but I had to go see the EMT before I got another good try on that problem. The EMT was not able to stop the bleeding so my finger was painfully gushing all over the place for the rest of my comp despite my use of chalk, superglue, and tape. Had I not been preoccupied with that finger I believe would have been a bit more focused for last few problems. However, the end of the comp was not what killed my score, it was the first few problems, and I think it had to do with the cold and me not be too psyched be dynoing around on crimps. Hudson and the other TEAM USA coaches said that I am more than strong enough to pull some of the same moves that these world champs pulled but I just was not trusting in my instincts.



But enough of that, it was a fun comp nonetheless and my very first World Cup. I received the bid kinda late for this comp so next time I hope that I have more time to prepare and train for this specific event.


Now I set my sights on what I do best - ROPE! 


Styched for more

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