Hueco

   My first time in Hueco was spectacualar to say the least!  I couldnt beleive the density of hard and quality problems.  I found that being there during the New Year was a great time to see many of my friends as well as benefiting from the great temps.  Speaking of which, it was unseasonable cold and we even got 2 inches of snow.  I appreciated these temps because in general I grease off problems. The friction was great which ended up eating up my skin even after the first day. 
     One of the most challenging parts of climbing in Hueco is getting used to the unique movement - the toe hooks; the cams; the giant huecos.  Thankfully I had a few friends with me that gave really good advice and beta for many of the problems that we were getting on.
    I wish I had gotten on some of the stuff on North Mountain but I was unable to get on.  The Egg was one of the most memorable problem that I got on - it has been over a week since I was in Hueco and I still have huge bruises on my knees from trying to kneebar so hard.  10-10 was another climb, at East, that I found to be particulary intersting.  One of my good friends lost most of his fingertip to that problem as he hand-heal matched and ended slicing the side of his finger off.  That was really unfortunate because it crippled his finger for the rest of the trip.  In this way, I feel like I was getting revenge for my friend by sending 10-10. 

The tick list includes but is not limited to:

Day 1: dragon fly v5, ultramega v8

Day 2: long haul v8, eat your wheaties v8/9, moonshine left v6

Day 3: Crimps for Christ v10, Hobbit in a Blender v5, hector in a blender v7, standing start v7

Day 4: Shrum V9 (onsight), between the cheeks v7, between the sheets v5, between the teets v4

Day 5: Frogger v9

Day 6: Glass Roof v9

Day 7: 10-10 v10

 

Pictures and Video to come